Hello avid readers! Holly from the Ops team here! Earlier on this year, I went on an unforgettable two-week adventure to Nepal with my Mum, and I am excited to share my journey with you. Nepal, with its eight of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks, is a playground for climbers, walkers, and adrenaline junkies. Trekking among the giants of the Himalayas is a rite of passage in this awe-inspiring country, and that's exactly what we did.
Choosing a Trek
There are an infinite number of phenomenal trekking options in Nepal. However, due to weather and time restraints, we chose to tackle the Poon Hill trek; a stunning gem nestled in the Annapurna region. Poon Hill is about 40 miles northwest of Pokhara, Nepal’s vibrant and lively second city. This trek offers breathtaking views and a real taste of Himalayan village life, making it a ‘must-do’ when visiting the region.
What is the Poon Hill Trek?
The Poon Hill trek is a multi-day journey, which is usually completed over four days. However, there are various options to extend the trek based on your interests and objectives. Many trekkers who later tackle Annapurna Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit begin their journey with Poon Hill. This trek serves as a fantastic introduction to the Himalayas, offering stunning views and a gentle acclimatisation period.
However, don’t be fooled! Despite its name, Poon Hill is quite the challenge. At around 3,200 meters above sea level, it might be considered a 'hill' by Nepali standards, but it’s a serious climb by European standards, reaching altitudes comparable to many popular Alpine ski resorts! So, although it may be labelled as an 'easy' trek locally, it’s no stroll in the park. As with any multi-day hike, proper preparation is crucial.
Day One
The adventure began with a hearty breakfast in Pokhara before setting off for the village of Gandaki, about an hour and a half northwest. There, we met up with our wonderful porter, Visnu, and our guide, Bimal, signed us in.
Before diving into the details of the trek, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the unsung heroes of Himalayan trekking: the porters. These incredible individuals often spend long periods of time away from their families, carrying heavy loads up and down rugged trails with remarkable speed. Their strength and resilience are vital to the trekking experience and allow us to focus on the journey ahead. Our porter, Visnu, was a prime example of this dedication and skill.
We hit the trail around 10 a.m., under the hot April sun. Unfortunately, forest fires were blazing elsewhere in Nepal, and even though we were hundreds of miles away, smoke and ash lingered in the air, creating a stifling atmosphere.
The trek began with a gentle incline on a sandy, well-trodden path, passing dry rivers and lush rice paddies. Despite the 33-degree heat, the start of the trek was very manageable, and the numerous tea houses offered cold Coca-Colas, hot ginger teas, and the occasional cheeky Mars Bar. So, although my British constitution struggled with the heat, the walk was relatively relaxed at first.
After a few hours, we stopped at a popular tea house for noodle soup and tea, which was a much-needed break. Refuelled, we continued on, and this is where the trek took a turn for the challenging. The path transformed into a relentless series of steep steps. With a heavy rucksack and the heat still weighing me down, I slogged up the steps, trying not to be disheartened by an Italian group who breezed past me as if this was a casual stroll.
Eventually, after more stops than I’d like to admit, we reached Ulleri, a picturesque Himalayan village situated around 2,000 meters above sea level. As I tucked into my first ever Dal Bhat, I felt a huge sense of relief. I was so incredibly grateful for Bimal’s kindness and patience; I kept going thanks to his encouragement.
Now, if you’re planning a trek to Poon Hill, here are a couple of things to keep in mind:
- Hot Showers: Whilst the teahouses dotted along the Poon Hill trek feel like a real luxury, DO NOT count on a hot shower after your trek. If you’re fortunate enough to have hot water, be considerate and limit your usage. As a long-shower enthusiast, this was a challenge for me.
- Toilets: In a similar vein, private or Western-style toilets are not guaranteed. Squat toilets are common in Nepal, and this is definitely something you’ll need to get used to. On the plus side, they’re great for the quads.
In Ulleri, however, we were lucky to have both a hot shower and a Western toilet, along with a comfortable, warm bed in a clean room. The tea houses are fairly basic, but after a tough day, they are the most welcome sight.
Day Two
After a good night’s sleep, we woke up to a spectacular sight. The low clouds and smoke had cleared just enough to reveal our first glimpse of the giants. In the distance, the imposing outline of Annapurna South—a 7,200-metre peak—emerged from the haze.
When setting out on a trek, it’s easy to forget that clear views aren’t guaranteed—a harsh reality of trekking in any mountain range. The women working in the teahouse told us they hadn’t seen Annapurna South in over a month, so we felt incredibly lucky to catch a glimpse of this dominant triangular peak.
We began our second day’s walk following a good breakfast. A little achy from the day before, we made our way out of Ulleri via—yes, you guessed it—more steps! However, with cooler temperatures and a lighter rucksack, this felt much easier than the trials of the previous day.
Within the first hour of walking, we reached a more gentle path that led us through a beautiful, forested area. The late morning sun made the canopy very welcome. The Poon Hill trek isn’t particularly exposed, making it a great option for those who may not have a head for heights. However, during this section of the trek, you will catch the occasional glimpse of dramatic, steep canyons.
After a couple of hours on the undulating but gentle path, we encountered yet more steps. Fortunately, they were much less steep than those on day one! Eventually, after approximately four hours of walking, we reached the village of Ghorepani, situated at about 3,000 meters.
Ghorepani village is renowned for offering some of the most stunning views in the world. At the top of the village, you’re treated to panoramic views of the entire Annapurna Mountain range and a breathtaking view of Dhaulagiri. However, we were once again met with thick clouds obscuring the view. It’s incredibly eerie knowing that you’re so close to such monumental mountains yet unable to see them. This experience, in itself, was quite surreal.
Once we checked into our teahouse, we tucked into our Dal Bhat and tried not to feel too disheartened by the lack of view. However, Bimal, the true ray of sunshine he is, felt optimistic. The people in Nepal are extremely spiritual and firmly believe in karma. Bimal felt certain that our patience would be rewarded.
Feeling a little more hopeful, we hit the hay nice and early, ready for an early start.
Day Three
After a fairly restless sleep, we were woken up bright and early by a very excited Bimal. He knocked on our door at roughly 4 a.m. to say that he could see the outlines of the mountains! Still half asleep, we stumbled out of the room, and sure enough, there they were, right in front of us.
Inspired, we began the trek to the summit pretty soon afterwards, excited to see the views at the top. More steps of course. As the sun crept up, the mountains were becoming clearer and clearer. After about an hour of walking, we reached the summit.
And wow.
I was not disappointed.
As the sun peaked over the top of the Annapurnas, the Himalayas revealed themselves in all their glory. I have always loved mountains, and this moment felt like a real bucket list achievement for me. Gazing at these monumental peaks towering over you while you’re at considerable altitude yourself is mind-boggling. All I could think of is the slightly mad climbers who choose to climb these things, who are willing to risk their lives for it. Safe to say it could never be me, but at that moment, I felt a real connection with both nature and the adventurers who dare to conquer it.
After about an hour at the top, and after taking about a thousand pictures, we descended back to Ghorepani, where we picked up our things and began the descent.
Advice for anyone trekking in the Himalayas
Porters are genuinely okay with carrying your belongings, and they are probably much more capable than you. It may feel odd letting someone take your things up a mountain, but they want the work.
Just make sure that you:
- Pay porters the respect they deserve
- Pack considerately and leave your heavy items at home
- Speak to them. A lot of porters want to practice their English so that they can become tour leaders
- Make sure you tip them as well as you possibly can
- Buy your porter and guide treats along the way! A can of coke and a Mars bar goes a really long way
- We found that most guides and porters will only eat after you have finished. This often means that they are eating at about 9:30pm – 10pm. We invited Bimal and Vishnu to eat with us each evening, which is not the cultural norm, but I would strongly recommend offering
- Take a look at you porter and guide's kit. Is there anything that they are missing, or anything that may be of real benefit to them? Can you spare any of your kit or equipment to help them out?
When in the mountains, avoid eating meat and avoid Western food (the pizzas are NOT good). In Nepal, you will see the phrase ‘Dal Bhat power, 24-hour.’ This is one of the most nourishing and filling foods you can eat in the mountains.
Even if you are not able to see the views, walking in the Himalayas still feels like such an amazing experience. Multi-day treks push you; you will feel good and will get a sense of achievement.
Think about how best to purify your water before you go.
Bring a portable charger.
Bring your own loo roll!
Train for your trek and make sure your boots are broken in before you go.